![]() ![]() ![]() These will support the floor of the enclosed area. Attach a frame of horizontal 2Á-4s to the four posts on the left side of the rectangle 24 inches above ground level.Attach a frame of horizontal 2Á-4s between the tops of all the posts along the front and back sides of the structure, and add three more at an angle between the three pairs of taller front posts and the shorter rear posts as rafters.They should correspond to the height of the other front and rear posts. (For example, if the coop was 12 feet wide, these posts would be 4 feet from the posts on the left side corner posts.) These posts are to support the frame of the enclosed portion of the coop. Add a pair of parallel 4Á-4 posts approximately one-third of the distance from the left side of the rectangle.Attach the gate frame to the corner post with galvanized gate hinges. Use an anti-sag gate kit to prevent the 2Á-2 frame from sagging. This needs to be nothing more than a rectangle of 2Á-2s screwed or nailed together. Build a gate frame to fit the space of the entryway (a 2- by 6-foot rectangle) using 2Á-2 lumber.Nail or screw a 2Á-4 in a horizontal position between the aforementioned posts on the right front corner of the run at a height of 6 feet.This post is to support a gate that will serve as an entryway to the run and should be 8 feet in height. Add a 4Á-4 post 2 feet from the right front corner of the rectangle. ![]() ![]() Cut the posts so the front ones are 8 feet tall and the back ones are 6 feet tall in preparation for installing a pitched roof over the enclosed portion. Set four 4Á-4 vertical posts in concrete in a rectangular shape based on the size of the coop you need (4 feet by 8 feet or 6 feet by 12 feet or 8 by 16 feet, for example).The open-air run should be covered with chicken wire (metal mesh) on all sides to prevent predators from entering. Use naturally rot-resistant lumber – such as cedar or redwood – rather than pressure treated lumber which contains heavy metals, like arsenic, that may be harmful to your chicken’s health. Step 2: Build the FrameĪs with most outbuildings, the simplest approach is to begin with a rectangular frame and then add on the various components that are needed. If a site under a large tree is not available, you’ll have to shade the run with shade cloth. However, extra space is always better – just like humans, chickens are prone to squabbling when they’re packed in tight quarters at all times.Ĭhickens need shade in the heat of the day, so locating the coop under a large deciduous tree is ideal – they will be cool in summer and can bask in the sun during winter once the leaves have dropped. The accepted minimum sizes are 2 to 3 square feet per bird inside the coop and 4 to 5 square feet per bird in the run. (More on that in a moment.) There are many possible ways to configure a coop, but here’s how to build a basic model that can easily be customized according to your aesthetic tastes. The enclosed space should open directly to the run, but should be elevated at least two feet above it so there is space to collect the droppings that fall through the floor. The internet is awash in plans for backyard chicken coops, which are a great place to look for inspiration, but all coops have two main components: an enclosed space for sleeping and laying eggs and an open air ‘chicken run’ to roam around in during the day. Building a basic chicken coop for a small flock of birds is a solid weekend project for the determined do-it-yourselfer with basic carpentry skills, while the more elaborate coops could easily take several weeks (and will require advanced carpentry skills). ![]()
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